Designed & made in France
🚚 Exceptional order volume since 1 September — allow 3 to 5 days between your order and its dispatch. We are shipping as fast as we can. ✅ Orders up to September 6: shipped. 🔄 Orders placed since September 7: currently being processed.Ordered → dispatched: ⏳ Sept 8-12 → Sept 15 · ⏳ Sept 13 → Sept 16
🎉 New: meet Pylon-Monitor Lite — the same WiFi monitoring firmware as Pylon-Monitor V2, without the physical screen. €39, same JSON API, same Home Assistant integration. Discover Pylon-Monitor Lite →
🎉 New feature: the USB Recovery Flasher — get your Pylon-Monitor working again over a USB cable when it can't be reached over WiFi any more, straight from your browser, no software to install. Try it →

Installation guide

True plug & play. From unboxing to live dashboard in under 2 minutes. One RJ45 cable, one USB cable, one captive portal — if you can plug in a phone charger, you can install a Pylon-Monitor.

What's in the box

Net weight ~93 g · Shipping weight (incl. ~30 g packaging) ~123 g.

Pylon-Monitor package contents: device, RJ45 cable, USB-C cable and quick start card
You will also need: a 5V USB power source (any phone charger, a free port on your inverter, a power bank…). The device draws under 0.5 W.

Step-by-step

Pylon-Monitor ports: RJ45 (Console) socket and USB-C (power) socket
  1. Plug into the battery

    Connect one end of the RJ45 cable into the Console port of your Pylontech battery (top of the master battery in a stack). Plug the other end into the RJ45 socket on the Pylon-Monitor.

    Pylontech master battery panel: the RJ45 cable in the CONSOLE port feeds the Pylon-Monitor, while the stack link cable leaves LINK PORT 1 towards the slave battery
    On the master battery: CONSOLE goes to the Pylon-Monitor, LINK PORT 1 goes to the slave battery.
    The mistake almost everyone makes: LINK PORT 1, not LINK PORT 0
    The cable that chains your master battery to the first slave must leave LINK PORT 1 on the master — never LINK PORT 0. It plugs into LINK PORT 0 on the slave, and every further battery repeats the same 1 → 0 pattern. Wired the other way round the master never sees the rest of the stack, so Pylon-Monitor reports a single battery no matter how many you own.
  2. Power the device

    Plug the USB-C cable into the Pylon-Monitor and into any 5V USB source. The TFT screen lights up within a couple of seconds.

  3. Connect to the setup WiFi

    On your phone or laptop, open WiFi settings. A new network called PylonMonitor-Setup appears. Connect to it (no password). A captive portal opens automatically; if not, browse to http://192.168.4.1.

  4. Pick your home WiFi

    The portal shows a list of nearby networks. Tap yours, enter the password, hit Save and connect. The Pylon-Monitor reboots and joins your network.

    Pylon-Monitor captive portal — choosing a home WiFi network and entering the password
  5. Open the dashboard

    After reboot, the TFT screen shows the device's IP address (the one your router assigned). Type it into your browser, or try http://pylon-monitor.local if your network supports mDNS. You'll see the live dashboard.

    Live Pylon-Monitor dashboard
That's it. Bookmark the dashboard on your phone's home screen for one-tap access.

TFT screen layout

Once connected to the battery, the TFT screen shows by default:

Every element except the percentage can be toggled individually from the dashboard's Screen Display page, with a live preview.

Troubleshooting

The TFT screen stays blank

Check the USB cable and power source. Try a different USB port. The device draws very little, but it does need a proper 5V supply.

"No battery data" on the TFT screen

The RJ45 cable is plugged into the wrong port. Pylontech batteries have several RJ45 sockets — make sure you're using the one labeled Console, not RS485, CAN or Link.

Only one battery shows up, but I have several

Almost always the stack link cable: it must leave LINK PORT 1 on the master battery and land in LINK PORT 0 on the first slave — not the other way round, and never LINK PORT 0 to LINK PORT 0. Each further battery repeats the same 1 → 0 pattern. Until that chain is right the master has nothing to relay, so Pylon-Monitor reports the master alone. See the wiring photo above.

I don't see PylonMonitor-Setup

The device may have already joined a previous network. 2 quick taps in a row on the reset button (on the back of the enclosure) to reopen the portal (temporary, nothing is erased), or use the Factory Reset button in the web dashboard if you still have access to it.

pylon-monitor.local doesn't open

mDNS may be disabled on your network. Just use the IP address shown on the TFT screen instead.

The dashboard works, but I want it in Home Assistant

You're one short YAML paste away — the device generates it for you, ready to copy. Follow the Home Assistant integration guide →

Three levels of reset

The Pylon-Monitor has three distinct mechanisms — don't confuse them:

The reset button is on the back of the enclosure. Each press is quick — like any other reset button, there's nothing to hold down, whether you press it for half a second or several seconds makes no difference. What matters: 2 or 3 quick taps in a row (each within 8 seconds of the last).

In every case, the device reboots into PylonMonitor-Setup mode.

Screen stays blank and none of the above brings it back? That means the firmware itself didn't start correctly — usually after an interrupted update. Our USB Recovery Flasher reflashes the device directly over a USB cable from your browser (Chrome or Edge on a computer), for when it can't be reached over WiFi at all any more.